Pearls-Part 4: What to look for when buying pearls
Published On: 11-14-2011 06:55pm
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The quality, size, shape and color of pearls varies widely, and while this can be a bit frustrating at times, it also makes shopping for them great fun! According to an article in Lapidary Jounral [July, 2006] pearls have seven critical attributes to consider - luster, orient, overtones, surface quality, size, shape and color. LJ describes them as below:Luster - the amount and the quality of light reflected by the surface of the pearl - is generally recognized as the most important attribute. Orient refers to the rainbow colors visible in some pearls and it adds depth to their luster, while overtones refer to the purplish-pinks and greens we see in some pearls, like the famourTahitian pearls. These three qualities are all related to the stacking and configuration of cells in the nacre layer of the pearls, and the thickness of that layer - nacre being a chemical compound the mollusk lays down in the pearl-creation process. [Remember, natural pearls and cultured non-bead-nucleated freshwater pearls are all nacre; cultured softwater pearls and the more recent round bead-nucleated freshwater pearls have an outer nacre layer.]
Surface quality refers to blemishes on the pearl - chips, circles, bumps, wrinkles, spots without nacre or dulll light spots, scratches, etc. Depending on how blemished the surface is, and where the blemishes are located, this may or may not be a "deal-breaker". In fact, some of these - notably the ones with wrinkles, swirls, or bubbles/bumps - are matched to create unusual and attractive pearl strands or accent pearls.
Size [measured in millimeters] is the result of the size of the mollusk used to create the pearl, and also the time spent in the water before harvesting, which determines the thickness of the nacre. Akoya pearls are normally not bigger than 7 millimeters, while South Seas and Tahitian pearls are most often at least 12-14 millimeters.
Shape - As we saw in previous blog posts, the advent of the freshwater pearl has resulted in many new shapes, and they are increasingly used to create their own exotic, unique looks in today's market. Perfectly round pearls are the most rare, still highly prized, as are symmetrical drops in the South Seas and Tahitian pearls.
The last attribute is color. This refers to the color of the body of the pearl - not to be confused with overtones. Traditionally, the white pearl was king, but the arrival of South Seas, Tahitian and freshwater pearls have changed that view.
When you are shopping for a good strand of pearls, you may want to have a price point in mind. Take your time and go to more than one purveyor to see what's available? Do you want the "classic" look, or one of today's many other shapes and colors? Will you wear it with many pieces in your wardrobe and for many occasions, or do you envision it with only select outfits on certain occasions?
You will want to choose a shape, size and color that appeals to you, and you will probably automatically be drawn to pearls with great luster. Look a little deeper to discern the depth of that layer (orient), and examine the pearls for the colors of the orient and the overtones. Do the colors in these pearls complement your skin tones to your best advantage? Check the whole strand for symmetry in luster, color, orient, overtones, size, shape and surface quality. They should be well-matched along the whole length of the strand.
Finally, enjoy the process. You will see and learn a lot about these luscious "gems" as you look for your own perfect strand.
The image shown is a strand of Chinese freshwater pearls, graduated rounds, in natural colors.
