Published On: 09-16-2012 10:26am
Comments: 48 - Hits: 28731
Category: About my Artisan Jewelry and Jewelry-making in General
I like using tumbled stones in my handcrafted jewelry. As I wrote in an earlier post, I like their natural free form shapes and the degrees of polish possible when I process stones in the rock tumbler. For many of my artisan jewelry designs like simple pendants or my Pebbles’ earrings, the stones need to be drilled.
My husband and I have a full woodworking shop. However, I knew our woodworking drill press
would not do for tumbled stones. You see, you don’t actually drill through a stone
like wood rather you grind the stone away. It's more like drilling concrete or tile. You need higher speeds and (obviously) smaller
drill chuck for stones. When the bug first bit me to drill some of the tumbled stones
I brought back from my childhood home, I looked to what I had at hand: a Dremel
tool. The Dremel offered appropriate maximum speed (and range if I could vary it) and a variety of available useful accessories but was not enough just on its own.
My Dremel tool is a basic single-speed one. With the addition of a tool stand (around $45 from Amazon at the time) and foot control (from the household sewing machine) I’ve put together a useful stone drilling station. As a bonus, the Dremel stand is also useful to hold the tool at right angles for grinding and polishing. I use it often this way to polish silver and copper wire components for my jewelry.
The Dremel tool on the left for use as a hand tool. On the right is the Dremel stand or workstation.
The Dremel tool mounted in the workstation. The big blue handle moves the Dremel up and down like a drill press.
The foot control allows me to have the Dremel plugged in and “on” but
not spinning until I apply pressure with my foot. It also gives me speed
control; light foot pressure slowly starts the Dremel and more foot pressure
increases the speed of the tool until it maxes out. I can hold the stone with
one hand and operate the drill plunger to bring the bit to the work with the
other hand while my foot activates the tool.
The sewing machine electronic foot control that I use in my stone drilling station. Note that the Dremel is plugged into the outlet on the control that says "motor".
The keys to drilling through stone are using an appropriate abrasive, keeping the bit cool and free of the clogging stone dust that is generated, and having plenty of patience with your technique. I use a plastic tray that I fill with enough water to just cover my stone. I use a thick piece of leather (two pieces actually) underneath the stone to prevent drilling through my reservoir. You could use a piece of wood or plastic. You just need something to stand off the bottom of the tray that is soft so that the drill bit won’t be harmed as it breaks through the stone. I keep a water bottle handy as I work to top off the bath or to wash the drill bit from time to time. The purpose of the water bath is to keep the drill cooler and to wash the drill and the hole of the stone slurry.
I use a plastic tray (from a frozen food entree) to hold water enough to cover the stone. Also shown is the leather pad and a plastic bottle cap that I use to hold the stones off the bottom of the tray. The leather works really well to uniformly support the stones.
The abrasive of choice for drilling stones is diamond. I have used diamond burr bits and diamond core bits. A burr bit is a solid bit with the abrasive on the face and partway up the sides. A core bit is hollow at the cutting end with abrasive on the face and inner and outer walls. Cores are generally “better” by which I mean they start a hole better and last a little longer. But be prepared: either type of bit wears out quickly with harder stones like agate or petrified wood. I get about two holes per bit in ¼-inch thick harder stones, whereas with softer stones like amazonite I might drill 5-10 holes with a bit. Diamond bits for drilling stones are available at many jewelry and lapidary supply outlets on line or in your neighborhood. I’ve purchased drills from Amazon, Mama’s Minerals, and Rio Grande.
An assortment of diamond drills. A set of burrs is shown at top while a bunch of cores are shown at bottom.
What I’ve found works best is a pulsing technique. I hold my stone under water on the leather pad. I bring the bit down to the work and touch the stone. If it is cutting well, I see a plume of stone slurry begin to wash off and I hear a nice “dentist tool” sound. I touch the stone allowing the bit to grind for about one second, pull the bit up and then back down for about a second and so on like this. I feel that this prevents overheating; it washes the hole, and keeps me from putting too much pressure on the bit. If the stone slurry stops or the bit starts to “whine” it is time to change the bit. (Worn out bits can be used as grinding tools – using the abrasive on the side walls of the bit – for a time thus extending their useful life around the studio.)
Here, I'm holding the stone under water on the leather pad. The drill bit is shown above the work. By repeatedly (and gently) bringing the drill down to the work a hole is slowly ground through the stone.
A danger with some stones such as feldspar (amazonite is a type of feldspar) is “chip out” or breaking flakes off the stone as the drill emerges on the back side of the hole. Although I can’t prevent this from happening all the time, I’ve found a few things that help.
1. Drilling stones before they’ve been through the final polish or even the pre-polish step in the tumbling process.
2. Embedding the stone in putty (plumbers putty is messy, but you can also use that stuff for mounting posters on the wall) on the backside to support any irregularities.
3. Stopping at intervals before completing the hole to see if you can see through the stone well enough to start the hole again from the back side. This has the most success. I will often mark the drill with a sharpie at the level where I think the drill will be just about through the stone. when I reach the mark, I'll stop drilling, dry off the stone, hold it up to the light to see if I can spot the hole from the backside, and use the sharpie to mark the center of the light spot on the stone. I return the stone to the drilling station and drill from the back side. As long as I’ve carefully marked the center, the holes usually line up well.
Drilling tumbled stones is a slow process. I find it meditative most of the time. If I find that I’m getting frustrated, well, then it is time to stop. Hopefully, by that time, I’ve accumulated enough drilled stones to satisfy my jewelry making efforts for many weeks.
By Guest on 06/25/2014 @ 10:01pmthank you sooo much PebblesatmyFeet for sharing this info. I am going to buy the stand for my Dremel. Rimona
By PebblesatmyFeet on 05/27/2014 @ 11:32amTo the Guest who asked about sealing stones instead of tumbling them - the answer is yes, maybe, but there's more to it. Tumbling does more than make the surface shiny. It rounds and softens the stones, it reveals (sometimes unfortunately) cracks and flaws that might make you reject the stone for jewelry making, and it will give a shine or a beach stone effect depending on how far you take the tumbling process. See my post for more: http://www.artfire.com/ext/shop/blog_post/PebblesatmyFeet/8899/tumble-polishing_stones_for_my_handcrafted_jewelry
By PebblesatmyFeet on 04/08/2014 @ 02:55pmYes, if feldspar is tumbled with similar softer stones, it will take a polish. It doesn't take that deep wet-look polish that a piece of agate or petrified wood will, but I've been able to achieve a nice semi-gloss shine. I use plastic pellets in the later tumbling stages to take up volume lost.
By Guest on 04/08/2014 @ 03:40amDo you really tumble feldspar to a polish? I had some that I put in my tumbler for only 4 days and it wore away quite a lot. Everyone tells me it won't polish because it's so soft.
By PebblesatmyFeet on 04/03/2014 @ 02:48pmTo the guest who asked about sea glass - glass is very similar to quartz in hardness, so I would expect it to drill like amethyst or agates. That means to me, it will burn up bits pretty quickly. Keep the piece under water and go slowly!
By Guest on 04/03/2014 @ 02:32pmThank you for sharing, have been wondering how I could better utilise my crystal pieces other than making bezels which are not my favourite pastime, and how to use my dremel for drilling holes in stones and glass.
By Guest on 03/29/2014 @ 06:37amI wonder about sea glass pendant type, will it go well with the Dremel and with workstation?? I am a crafter and have excellent workshop room( used a LOT by my dear dad, now passed) but haven't cleared the room out and set up a real workshop yet... I am not sure to go ahead and buy a new drilling tool and try to drill sea glass and still spending a lot on new bits and so often... Question is how many holes in a bit can make ??? Let's say 1/8 thick sea glass and 1 mm hole???
By Guest on 03/22/2014 @ 11:16amI'm a retired general contractor . I'm 59 years old. I have normaly worked with wood,steel, and bones as my art mediums. I recently started working with stones. I find it be very much fun .If some people are familiar with hand held grinding tools, like my 4 inch makita, You can buy diamond cutting wheels for the grinder and experiment with cutting and polishing stones. I recently cut and shaped a cool pendant and earrings for my wife. try it. thanks, Kip
By Guest on 03/10/2014 @ 10:23pmHi, Thanks for your talent. Amazing items. I am looking to make some items but do not even know where to begin. Could you give me some advise on getting started on making items from stone. I LOVE stone and really want to get something going for me with stones. Thanks in advance, Mike Novack :)
By PebblesatmyFeet on 03/07/2014 @ 06:17pmHi Jo, and thanks for your comment. There are two supplemental posts here as well - be sure to have your friend take a look. Cheers!
By Umeboshi on 03/07/2014 @ 08:11amHey Pamela, I just stumbled here from a Google search! I have a friend who wants to drill some pebbles to make a gift for his girl friend and I found YOU! Thanks for this great informative blog. I think I have all that is needed from my glass studio. Jo Perez
By CapturedByLori on 02/18/2014 @ 09:30pmThanks for your generous sharing! I've added you to my favorite markets!
By PebblesatmyFeet on 01/14/2014 @ 07:16pmNice job! (to the guest who is drilling 20 stones per bit, that's great!) Good tips as well for preventing break/chip out.
By PebblesatmyFeet on 01/14/2014 @ 07:13pmI have read other tutorials and blogs on the web that describe drilling holes in stones while hand holding the dremel tool. The tool is not very comfortable in my hand, but I'm sure if one wanted to only drill occasionally it would work. The main issue would be staying lined up to keep the hole going straight. To the guest who asked about jasper - I think it might depend on the type, but red jasper and picture jasper seem to drill pretty easily - keep the stone under water and don't force the drill would be my advice. Now, fancy jasper is harder more like an agate and agates do take long and multiple drill bits.
By Guest on 01/14/2014 @ 11:22amHow long does it usually take to go through jasper. I have a 200 dremel with 1.5 diamond bit. This seems it takes forever
By Guest on 12/26/2013 @ 10:44amDo you think this would work without the workstation for the Dremel? The workstation looks like the best idea, but I'm wondering if I could get the same results with just holding the Dremel in my hand. I just don't want to invest in the workstation right now, but I have a piece of turquoise that I want to put a hole in. What do you think?
By PebblesatmyFeet on 12/02/2013 @ 09:03amTo the guest who asked about drill bits - please see subsequent blog posts. Short answer is choose a size that you like for the cord or wire that you will use with your stone. I typically use 1.5-2mm drills you might need 4mm or more if you want to double up the cord. Diamond bits. You can get them at Amazon, Rio Grande Jewelry Supplies, most lapidary supply outlets.
By Guest on 12/01/2013 @ 10:05pmWith the workstation you can either adjust the height of the drill or set the draw depth so the bit stops just above your base (the 2 pieces of leather)a little higher if using putty too. To mark the position of the hole if you can't see through I wrap a thing piece of tape around the stone with the edge just below the hole. Using the cheap .5 mm to 2 mm bits from ebay/amazon I am managing an avg of 20 holes per bit with a more accurate size than using the burrs. That workstation is wonderful:)